"Jiumu King Cup" China Trousers Design (Elite) Competition Final

Here in the world Clothing shoes and hats What the editor of the website tells us is how to produce a pair of trousers from "Tiancai Trousers" to "Yixing and Chunyi"?

With the original blood of nomads, pants are legendary, classic and energetic. Excellent designers and plate makers "re create" the pattern of pants again and again, such as one-piece pants, suspenders, wide leg pants, tapered pants, breeches, and harem pants. Exploring the "trouser journey" seems to be a wonderful journey, full of cultural details that fascinate us. But have you noticed that at the moment when pop culture is very important, we do not lack seasonal matching skills. Many fashion icons will tell you about the experience of matching accessories. Although we always have several pairs of pants in our wardrobe, it is the most easily overlooked fashion item.

Today, the reporter got a "special ticket". By participating in the final of the "Jiumu King Cup" China Trouser Design (Elite) Competition, the reporter personally experienced the whole process of 30 players making pants.

Before the match, the reporter participated in the fabric preparation. Although 30 contestants designed a set of casual clothes and a set of trousers with the theme of "shape and spring", and the requirement for them in the production and sewing stage was to produce one piece in three days, the organizing committee and Jiumuwang decided to prepare 120 fabrics. Not only that, the reporter even saw the leather fabrics with high price. All the equipment on the field are used machines. The reporter is very worried about the aging of the machines. The staff explained that the more the machines are used, the easier it is to use them. The machines that have not been run in are not easy to use. We also considered again and again. Although the new machines are used, the corporate image and the image of the competition are relatively good.

After the brief opening ceremony, the contestants entered the special training stage. The instructor Zhao Yufeng not only explained how to do trouser design, but also repeatedly stressed that the contestants should have a correct design concept. After the special training, we entered a tense opening stage. When we heard the theme of "shape and spring", some players took a long breath. This theme, like the "heaven cut pants" in the preliminaries, completely avoided the limitations of the theme.

To be fair, under the supervision of the competition organizing committee, all the contestants took their positions according to the seat numbers determined by lottery and began to draw the design drawings. For those who study design, they soon enter the state. After a busy afternoon of drawing, some people have started to use kraft paper and white cloth to enter the stage of setting. At noon the next day, most of the players had already started to choose fabrics, which was the most test of the experience of the players. At this stage, students will generally decide whether or not to pay attention. People who have worked in plate making in enterprises can quickly identify the fabric properties and predict the expressive force of fabrics on silhouettes.

　 A Competition to See the Shortcomings of Chinese Design

In this process, the reporter deeply felt that if the designer did not understand the process, technology and fabric, it would be easy to give up excellent design ideas in the production process, and many aesthetic innovations would be hampered by the limitations of production. According to the tutor, most Chinese designers, whether in enterprises or in their own studios, lack a comprehensive grasp of technology. This competition is a microcosm of the current situation of Chinese design.

In the exchange with Zhao Yufeng, Her point of view is very unique: "As the soul of the industry, designers differ from plate makers in two aspects: curiosity and spirituality. The most important thing for plate makers to transform into designers is to have a big pattern. Just like the design of men's pants, they must find support. The fulcrum of pants is the waist line, and the pattern of pants is the grasp of the silhouette. As designers, they cannot be afraid Being buried, I always believe that if it is gold, don't worry about being buried in the sand. Life is like this. There will always be several disturbances. When the wind blows, the gold will be exposed. This disturbance has no chance to be exposed, and the next one will also be exposed. Designers should be pure. Doing things is doing things. They should live a real life. Only when they are not disturbed can they gain attention. "

Can you handle the real assembly line?

In addition to watching the design and plate making, in order to understand the whole process of pants production, the reporter went into the production workshop. In the noisy sound, you can vaguely hear the music in the factory, and there are many pocket pants models around the counter.

The third floor adopts a hanging system, and the single piece flows down. Each worker is responsible for making a part of the single piece, and then passing the pants down. The fourth floor adopts Toyota's streamline production mode, and there are few "work in progress" in the production line. Each person makes different parts, cooperates with others, and transmits parts down every five pieces. It is reported that the efficiency of the two production modes is basically the same. Two systems produce about 8000 pieces a day in peak seasons.

The reporter saw that the machine alignment diagram clearly marked the entire assembly line's employee processes, transmission routes, efficiency records, etc. The largest process code is 36. This mode does not need to stand up, and does not need long-distance transportation in the traditional mode, and it is convenient to help nearby employees.

When asked "what is the most important link for quality control in these two production modes", Director Xiong Chengliang's answer was unexpected. "The most important thing is for the employees to recognize the standards. Quality is not determined by quality inspection. The most important thing is that the company's employees from top to bottom attach importance to quality. Chairman Lin Congying regularly comes to the production line, and Chen Jiaya, the general manager of every garment that leaves the factory, has touched it. The best example to show the requirements for quality is the 'burning defective pants' event."

　 Contestants say creativity

Men's No. 6 player Yang Kebin

I really like the theme of this contest, "Shape and Spring". This theme is very close to the current fashion and can remind me of many available elements. Inspiration is a beautiful and instantaneous thing.

I have integrated modern architectural elements into my design, pursuing simplicity and refinement in structural design as a whole. It is very rare to add small pleats in men's trousers. This time, we chose the classic texture fabric of Qianniao lattice, which is matt and unobtrusive, and the jacquard fabric we have long admired is used as the color insertion.

I have participated in some competitions. This competition has not only necessary tools, but also so many fabrics to choose from, which makes my design easy. The special training environment, design stage, plate making stage and sewing stage of the competition were all completed on site, but it was just a concentrated process. A short period of three days was really not enough. It was also very normal that there was a delay in the competition process. Although the time was short, it was still able to play a comprehensive ability.

Men's No. 5 contestant Wang Lixia

As a teacher in a vocational college, what he or she may consider most is the employment of students and practical technical problems in future enterprises. It's surprising that he was praised by the judges just now. His experience in pattern comes from the practice of making pants for his family and relatives. My original intention was very simple, because I found many problems in the market, such as inappropriate front crotch and insufficient rear section, and I tried to improve them.

Many people in my impression felt sorry that I didn't go to the enterprise for development. One student also told me what the prospect would be if I went to the enterprise for development. I said to the classmate, "If I went to an enterprise, I would not meet you today."

Maybe it's teaching occupation Ideally, I didn't think so much about it. If I win the contest, I will continue to teach and spread the experience learned in this contest to more people.

Cui Xuetao, No. 7 women's dress player

The selection of the theme of the contest is very creative. Whether it is "Tiancai pants" or "Yixing and Chunyi", it has a literary atmosphere. It not only shows vitality and passion, but also does not make people feel like drifting with the tide. Chunyi also expresses seasonal constraints. This design of mine adheres to the oriental design concept, and adopts the combination of plane cutting and three-dimensional cutting. I chose the fabric with a sense of stability, which contains the inner qualities of women.

In this competition, some of these players were born as pattern masters. They had rich experience in pattern making, and they were under great pressure in this respect.

As a contestant of Ji Wenbo Studio, I am very confident in my own design, but this time the judges and teachers did not approve of my purely theatrical design style. The judges thought that the design of pants should first promote functionality. In fact, Zhao Yufeng reminded me of this problem during the competition, but I always believed that I would find my customers. I wanted to stick to my inner design and was not willing to compromise.

Female No. 1 contestant Yang Qi

The pants in this design are wide legged, while the back is a two piece skirt pants design. This design will relatively use more fabrics. I was born as a printmaker and worked in the enterprise for 6 years. I knew that such a design would be "killed" under the cost control of the enterprise. So I brought it to this contest, which just meets the breath of spring and the requirements of "shape" in terms of silhouette.

Today, I was very encouraged by the favorable comments received from many judges. Some experts even suggested that I transform into high-end pants, suggesting that I should be more bold in materials. I feel that my design dream has been realized.

As a plate maker, I am well aware of my limitations, and I prefer to continue my career planning as a plate maker in the future. However, I need to strengthen my understanding of design. At present, I am studying art history and trying to cultivate my ability to capture creativity, but it is very important to have an excellent tutor to guide me.

Zhang Xi, female No. 12 player

As a junior student, I have no confidence in the design and production of my pants. I don't know why I used apricot color or why I added this ruffle, but I just want to do so.

When the judges said that I was very similar to the style of a major brand that had not been released this season, I was surprised because I had no contact with that brand, and it was a little surprise, which was just an accident.

The judges' proposal for my trouser hem decorative line is very practical, which can make the design more focused on the ruffles. Through this contest, I at least know that subtraction should be used properly in the design process.

The judges have something to say

Yu Jinlong (clothing technology expert)

Just as no calligrapher dares to write "one" better than anyone else, countless designers are cautious and cautious about the design of pants. This competition is more "pragmatic" than previous competitions, allowing each player to immerse in the competition field for three days, which can show the comprehensive ability of each player. As a judge, I pay more attention to the practical ability of the players. Those who do not understand the fabric, shape and technology are not qualified to talk about design. I advocate "value design" and "coaching" teaching. Before design, we should first consider the cost, attach importance to technical learning, and master the basic skills of production operation.

　 Wang Yutao (BeautyBerry designer)

This competition focuses on topics and exercises